Tuesday, November 22, 2011

The Lion's Den First Ascent

2 weeks ago the weather turned bad in Cedar City and  forced me to place any climbing efforts on hold.  When the weather finally started to cooperate the Lion's Den Project was still under an inch of snow.  In order to keep climbing I headed down south to Moe's Valley.  One thing I have always loved about Moe's Valley is that I have been climbing there every winter for the past 4 years and I always seems to find something I haven't done.  On this trip I was able to make a quick send of Ralph Polo Lauren V8 and I found an excellent little project tucked away right at the entrance.  I quickly figured out all the moves but a large flapper up an end to the day before I could send.

After a few more days the The Haven Dried out and conditions were perfect.  So Rachel, Cache and I headed back up the hill one more time.  While warming up I was able to put up a new line just north west of the lions den called 'Two Finger Show Down' V4.  We then headed down and after falling mid-crux the first go I was able to get back on and send the beast.  I am really psyched on finishing this off as it is the hardest problem I had done.  Also I am moving in a month and didn't want to leave it behind.  I can now leave Cedar.

Here is the video.

I was able to head back to Moe's a few days later and finished off The Project and dubbed it 'Sandman'.  I used dyno beta that felt V8 but Casey Webb was able to find some beta using the arete feature that felt more V7. If you are in Moes Check it out.  Also I did Shothole a classic V6 for the first time, if you are in Moe's this problem cannot be missed.

Also Casey has been putting up some excellent lines I am psyched on finishing up.  Cat Face V8 is 50 feet from the road and is pretty classic.  

Wednesday, November 2, 2011

The Bounty Hunter, FA

The Bounty Hunter is an incredible piece of rock and I am psyched to have gotten the FA.  The route is unique to the Swett Hills wash due to its texture and feature.  Using a lot of body tension and a razor sharp edge you work out a steep roof to a perfect blunt arete .  It went down the first go last Friday due to extra cold conditions. It checks in right around V10 for me.


Video of the FA of The Bounty Hunter and 50 Degrees of Perfection.

I named it the bounty hunter because it is located deeper in the wash than any other currently established problem in the wash.  Also when I hiked in I knew I had 10 goes or less due to the razor edge.  I have worked the problem in two previous sessions and the edge would cut my finger after a few goes and I would be unable to climb for 3 day while it healed up.  If your wondering if the problem is worth your time...YES it is, the movement it full value.  Note: If you are 5' 11" or taller you may be able to toss directly to the arete and avoid the edge. 

Next send will hopefully be the Lions Den Project!