Training Journal: Preparing for Cooler Temps

Nothing can be done about the temps but when the temps cool off I want to ensure that I am ready to climb at my peak.  Living in Cedar City makes this difficult due to the lack of a proper climbing gym. I have spent the past year trying to find effective ways to train at home with limited resources. I will be keeping a workout journal on the blog in hopes that it can give ideas to others trying to take their climbing to the next level without a climbing gym.  A disclaimer is necessary, I am not a professional so don't follow any workout I put up as you could injure yourself.  Also I found a system that works for me so no guarantees that you will see any results.

Today it felt good to get back to my workout as I have taken a 15 day break from training to allow a general recovery period for the summer.  I tried a new bike route out today that heads up cedar canyon then goes across most of cedar city. Cycling is a new addition to my workout, in an effort to increase my general fitness level. I have found that I really enjoy it and hope to improve my abilities.

Yoga is also a fairly new addition. Last spring I found that I was unable to do a move on a problem in Moe's valley due to a lack of flexibility in my hips.  I hope to send the problem, Bazooka Tooth v10, quickly this fall with an increased level of flexibility.  You can see my good friend Adam Ryder sending the problem on the video I put up.

A side note, I was reading an article in outside magazine and found out that Paul Robinson can do three one arm pull-ups on each arm. Time for a new workout goal, three one arm pull-ups on each arm. I am up to two on a good day, so I'm close. I will update with a video when I hit three.

Workout: Aug. 22, 2011

Cycling- 7.8 Miles - Time 36:25

Yoga- Forward bends routine  21 min, Hip opener routine 25 min

FINGERBOARD WORKOUT
Minute			Exercises
0:00	-	1:00	6			Pullups	Med. edge
1:00	-	2:00	10 sec		Hang		Flat sloper	4	Pullups	Med. edge
2:00	-	3:00	20 sec		Hang		Small edge	4	Pullups	3 Finger P.
3:00	-	4:00	30 sec.		Hang		Jugs	6	Pullups	Med. edge
4:00	-	5:00	20 sec		Hang		Sloper	6	Pullups	3 Finger P.
5:00	-	6:00	10 sec		Hang		Med. edge	4	Pullups	Small edge
6:00	-	7:00	20 sec		Hang		Jugs	4	Pullups	Sloper
7:00	-	8:00	10		Pullups		Med. edge
8:00	-	9:00	6		Pullups		Large edge
9:00	-	10:00	Max Hang on Round slopers
10:00	-	15:00	REST
At comfortable pace
			6 sec.	1 arm hang				4x each arm Lg. edge
			6 sec.	1 arm hang				4x each arm Med. edge
			6 sec.	hang				4x Med. 2 finger pocket
			6 sec.	hang				4x Lg. 2 finger pocket
			20 sec.	hang				Etch Pinch
			10 sec.	hang				Etch Pinch

                  

Weights

Curls: 30 lbs, 4 sets of 6, Time 3:03

Bench: 30 lbs dumbbells, 4 sets of 12, Time 3:30

Triceps kickback: 10 lbs 4 sets of 12, Time 3:00

Shoulder Press: 30 lbs, 4 sets of 6, Time 3:30

(I have limited weight so I try and do more in less time.)

Leg lifts:

bent leg center, 20 reps

1 min rest

bent leg left , 20 reps

1 min rest

bent leg right, 20 reps

1 min rest

straight leg center, 20 reps

(Total time 7 min)

I time my workouts to ensure the intensity is kept high.